So I'm going to have a guy Cerakote my 1911 that is not a gunsmith. He says for guns the person dropping the gun off or the gunsmith providing the gun will let him know the details. Also, I have the gun completely stripped down as I dehorned the entire gun. So I'm just going to be dropping the guy off the parts and instructions on what to do with each part. Then I'll assemble it back together once complete.

Lots of questions here.

So for my 1911 what parts should I avoid? The entire gun can be coated... but the inside of the barrel.
Which should be lightly coated? Cerakote is pretty thin... 1 to 2 mils, so it's not an issue unless you have some sub .001" tolorances.
Which left as is? ?
Which can be left alone, but would benefit from a polish and light oil? All parts must be media blasted for good adhesion, so polish is a waste of time. If you want shiny, there is a gloss clear coat available.

I figure the trigger part I see should be coating, but not sure if the back part that is inside the gun can be coated? Should be left as is? Or polished/buffed? If you want a polished part, then you don't want it coated. Or, mask the part you want left shiny... like a sear tip or a SS barrel hood.

Basically, just need to know some do and don't of getting parts of a 1911 coated so I get it done correctly the 1st time.

Also, after its done I plan on having the feed ramp buffed and polished and possibly in a month or so getting a trigger job done to the factor trigger parts. Is there anything I should have done prior to coating? Vs. just having it all done after? Just want to do everything correctly the first time vs. wishing I had done something else prior to coating. See above... Cerakote is not easily removed, so plan ahead and mask off anything you'll be working on later.

Please avoid comments regarding a different coating suggestions. I know the cons of cerakote and just wanting help making sure I get it done on the proper parts in the proper way. Thanks!

Cheers,
C

 

I just cerakoted a Rock Island Armory Tactical 1911 for a buddy. I disassembled it, degreased it and then Cerakoted/cured it. We did the slide, frame, trigger, hammer, both safetys, mag release button and take down lever. He had the feed ramp polished before hand so to be able to keep it I used a heat resistant tape to keep it protected.
I've done quite a few firearms with Cerakote. Cerakote is thin if applied properly but it still adds material to a surface. I try to stay away from direct shots of the inside of the frame and slide. Just a light "dusting" to cover it but not to coat it. It would depend on how tight your slide fits now to your frame. If it's tight, then be careful on the rails. I had to lightly sand and files areas on his slide/frame for it to go back together. Metal on metal will always wear and as long as everything is kept greased/oiled you should be ok. That of course depends on if you live in a high humidity area, ocean areas and other moisture. I keep all my firearms well greased and oiled regardless!
The controls are also parts that should be dusted, at least where they interact with other parts. Sear, hammer, trigger and so on. I do coat the hammer, not the sear but afterwards remove the Cerakote from the hammer to sear contact areas. Cerakote is ceramic based but it will cause that "gritty" feeling if it's not an even coat. better off just removing it from these areas or masking these areas off. They can't be seen unless it's taken down so not a big deal.

Here's a couple shots of it completed and assembled: