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1911auto Supporters
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
as promised, here's some pics of the of a morph from plane Jane RIA GI to what I had strapped on my side today

first, ya'll have seen a Rock GI, I s'pose, but if not, this is what they look like.
I bought this about a year ago

she's been reliable and trouble free right out of the box thru 3500 rounds.
However, i bought this gun (my second 1911) to do mods and learn the platform.

I installed a Wilson drop-in beavertail shortly after getting the gun
(but didn't take any pics)
Really wasn't much to it.
Just install, then took some metal off to blend better with the frame and tangs

this latest batch of mods were more detailed and I wanted a "one off" pistol

first was the dehorn/semi-melt.
Little more than a belt sander, and finish sander was used.
I didn't take any pics, cause it was just rip and go, then smooth.
Same was done to controls, then polished

Then the Bobtail.
An Ed Brown stainless Snake Skin pattern

cut, file and finish

on to the slide and sights

a HUGE UGLEEEEEEE monstrocity is what i started with

I really didnt think I could do a thing with them, but since they were cheap....
I grabbed the sander and files and started wacking
they looked much to me now

After shooting from the bags to zero sights, I filled in the gaps with ColdSteel (an epoxy similar to JB weld) filed and sanded smooth.
here's the final results after Duracoat

now for Duracoating.
I had done this twice, so I knew the drill.
THOROUGH degrease, then tape off critical tolerance areas.
tools of the trade.

I found that liquid med despensers work great for measuring Duracoat.
The animal syringes work great for small accurate measurments of hardner and reducer.
They can be bought for cheap at most farm supply or feed stores.

My "spray booth"
The "paint job" has been competed

I assembled the gun, and just wasn't happy with the looks.
It was still to "plain" looking.
Out came the sander, and i wiped the slide flats clean.
Then a couple hours of finish sanding (220grt, to 400 to 800) and polishing with jewelers rouge and felt wheel on the dremel.

Did a quick rip on the grips to the bobtail profile and called it good for "now"

I carried the fruits of labor all day today

I'm rather pleased with my carry creation


Old Sheepdog
772 Posts
Great job Cap, you're a braver man than I. The gun looks awesome.

I need a vacation
1,301 Posts
That's definitely one of a kind!

Everything looks so easy on the internet. The Duracoat looks good,I'd like to try it myself someday.

1911auto Supporters
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Duracoat looks good,I'd like to try it myself someday.
It's fairly easy, TA

Harbor Freight has an airbrush on sale for $5.99.
It's the same one you get in the Lauer kit.
If you have a compressor with regulator and moisture seperater,(I bought the mini seperator for $6 on sale) all you'll need is the "paint" , hardner and reducer

I bought a better spray gun, but i did it the first time w/airbrush and it worked well.


Premium Member
932 Posts
I agree with all the comments above.:dancingbananna:

1911auto Supporters
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks again guys.
haven't done any more to my "pet rock"

I got interested in some other hobbies and as the weather warmed up, started shooting USPSA matches, so I was more busy shooting my guns than tinkering with them

77, the Duracoat is holding up pretty well over all
'cept for a couple spots where it's chipped under the grips at the grip bushing and right under the plunger tube, it's been A-OK.
It's possible I didn't degrease those spots well enough before applying the finish.
I donno

My 38 Super Rock is all Duracoat and gets banged around quite a bit.
the stuff is pretty tough compared to the factory finish on my Para
Which seems to scratch and wear just by looking at it too hard:biggrin:

I don't know if Duracoat is as hard and durable as the finish on my "gWock nine"
but for a relatively easy "do it yourself" finish it's good stuff.
and darn near idiot proof to apply.
I did it the first job with an airbrush, but found a HVLP sprayer was easier/better to use.

i don't have any knowledge of the "spray paint can" version they sell.
I understand that has to be sprayed and baked to cure.

Mine didn't. It sets up hard enough to handle/shoot in 24 hours and fully cures in 2 weeks if I recall right

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