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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


Was going to put in a ed brown Grip safety but no go as you see to much metal removing



 

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Looks nice Bud. Does that Fusion GS really feel any bigger? Or did you install it for other reasons?
I seem to need a much bigger pad than anyone offers(big 'ol hands).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
 

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Looks real good, Bud.
 

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Nice , I'm wanting to put a solid trigger in my Les Baer Concept VII as well as the Baer Coat, so back to Baer it goes, just need to call and get some pricing.
 

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I think they are the ones that come standard on the Springfield TRP with half rail. Just sold mine to purchase a Fusion longslide. Therefore I would contact Springfield. Might be made for them by VZ grips.
 

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Dumb question, but...

Bud, please enlighten me. What is the benefit of a solid vs. "lightened" trigger, and does it apply to all 1911's or mostly to carry guns? I've been away from the handgun scene for awhile and not up on the latest "whats hot and whats not."
 

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I highly recommend having a fine stone to smooth out the top and bottom edge of the trigger along with the trigger channel on the frame. It does make a difference. I also like to stone pretty much all of the small parts lightly along with the insides of the frame where any parts rub.

By fine stone I mean the finest you can get especially for any already fitted parts. You don't want to file it down, jsut make it baby butt smooth. This is more necessary on production guns, but any gun can have a missed burr or missed rough spot on the parts.

High pwr. On aluminum triggers the serrated ones really don't reduce weight enough to do anything. It has become more of a "custom look" thing than anything. Since everyone now has serrated triggers I have seeen more solid triggers again. I used to like the serrated triggers when they were less of them, now that everyone has them I have gone back to liking the solid trigger. Go figure.
 

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... On aluminum triggers the serrated ones really don't reduce weight enough to do anything. It has become more of a "custom look" thing than anything...
Jerry are you meaning to say 'lightened' rather than 'serrated"? Triggers with holes or other voids in them, like this Wilson?



If we're talking about the same thing, it is my understanding that several years ago the lightening holes were drilled into the trigger to give it the lightest possible 'feel' for match competitors. But, I think you're correct - they really don't do much for trigger feel - stoning is a better solution than a lightened trigger, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
.Jerry is right there is no difference between swiss Cheese and a solid .. ?back when real steel triggers were used it mattered.

I prefer the looks no function difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Of course less lint ,, never have liked the 3 holed ones the triangle holed triggers look ok
 

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Triggers are a matter of choice, short med. long. solid or cutouts. Bottom line is how they fit.
You want no vertical play at all and set the stop screw correctly. The rest is just eye candy.
 

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Jerry is right there is no difference between swiss Cheese and a solid .. ?back when real steel triggers were used it mattered.

I prefer the looks no function difference
OK, so..... would I be correct in assuming that given the choice between 2 solid triggers (steel vs. aluminum) you would chose the lighter aluminum one? I understand that minimum clearance and smooth bearing surfaces are the key factor here. Looks aside - I'm just wondering how much of a concern it is (if any) to most folks here regarding the actual mass of their trigger.

Inquiring minds and all that......:tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
yes lighter to prevent trigger bounce
During Recoil the Triggers Weight can cause the sear to bounce and not grab on the Hammer Hooks and make the Gun Fire again or go full auto .. only happens with 4# or less triggers and Barely with any at 4#'s more towards 3# or less can bounce..
 

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Trigger bounce? You'll have to educate me on that one..... :confused:
 

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Good catch Jack, Yes I dd mean the "Skeletonized" or "lightened" triggers. The serraations are on the face of the trigger. With aluminum triggers the weight difference is negligible. with steel triggers it lightens them more.

Probably less lint in the solid triggers I havn't thought about it, and I'm with ya bud on the looks of the solid trigger.

Just make sure you get the LENGTH trigger that is best for you and now days the holes in the triggers are more a statement of who made them bo most. For example the cmc triggers have cuts a certain way, the caspain another, sti's plastic trigger different yet, etc.

I strongly suggest grabbing any 1911 (well most feel pretty much the same but just to make sure) and see how your finger falls on the trigger. You can do it detail stripped where the trigger can move to get a better idea. Let the finger fall naturally, bending where it naturally does and the end pad fall on the trigger pretty much in the middle of the pad. If the trigger is too short for you the weight will fall more on the left side causing you to push the shot to the left slightly. If it's too long you will hit the right edge more pulling it to the right more. Normally either a long, short or medium trigger will fit pretty doggone good. For those wanting to be perfect it's possible to get a blank trigger and cut it to your length.

Pretty much the aluminum triggers out there are based on the videcki design. They just have diffeent hole designs cut in them to set them apart (usually). Videcki was made by.....videcki. Videcki was bought out by greider so the greiders now were the videcki's. I like the greiders a lot, it's normally what I use, but I like solid triggers. They are also priced pretty well compared to some of the other's versions of the same thing.

They also have the medium length with the "original" three hole design that looks like the wilson pictured below. Like vic says though you really don't gain by serrations, just a prefererence of what is "purdy" to you. If you like the looks more then go with it.

Vic said it, the skeleton triggers really gain you nothing but what you think looks better....with the possible exception of less lint for the solid triggers.:)



[TraderJack;8564]Jerry are you meaning to say 'lightened' rather than 'serrated"? Triggers with holes or other voids in them, like this Wilson?



If we're talking about the same thing, it is my understanding that several years ago the lightening holes were drilled into the trigger to give it the lightest possible 'feel' for match competitors. But, I think you're correct - they really don't do much for trigger feel - stoning is a better solution than a lightened trigger, IMO.[/quote]
 

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During Recoil the Triggers Weight can cause the sear to bounce and not grab on the Hammer Hooks and make the Gun Fire again or go full auto .. only happens with 4# or less triggers and Barely with any at 4#'s more towards 3# or less can bounce..
Exactly, and obviously more likely with a heavier steel trigger. The reason the videcki trigger created such a folllowing and so many companies copying it.
 
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