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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Pics of my project (New pics)

What I got in the box:


What I've assembled so far:


Close up of the hand checkered front strap and the raised portion under the trigger guard:


The muzzle and bushing: (Piece of dog hair included by my dog, not Fusion)


This has gone together fairly easily. Standard deburring of holes needed. Some polishing of trigger tracks is still required. I need to get sights, the correct firing pin (I didn't know a standard GI .45 pin wouldn't work). I also forgot to order the correct firing pin stop to accomodate the Bomar sight cuts. The devil is in the details I guess, but it shouldn't take long to get her up and running. Also, deciding on final finish. If I'd known it was going to look so goo "in the white" I'd have probably just ordered Stainless.

This is intended to be a NM Service Pistol, if any of you are wondering why I didn't go with fancy chain link checkering, front cocking serrations, or wide beaver tails and such.

The company has been great to work with, and the project so far has held no major surprises in the area of fitting parts so far.

The fact that the kit comes with a fitted frame, slide, barrel and bushing, gives a huge head start, and the fit that it arrived with is very good. No slide to frame play at all, and while cycling the slide is tight it is smooth.
 

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Looking great Doc!!! By the way, a set of grips from Sarge will look fantastic on it!!!!:smile::smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looking great Doc!!! By the way, a set of grips from Sarge will look fantastic on it!!!!:smile::smile:
I'd consider it but the grips were hand made by a retired Coastie for me. I also, didn't notice any checkered grips on Sarge's page, and i like the way the checkered grips tend to hold the gun in place for me.

Sarge,
You got any really grippy grips that also look super sweet? The fleet match this year included some rainy wether, and high humidity shooting.
 

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Doc, those grips are sweet and handmade to boot!!! I wish that I could do work like that!! Tell your retired Coastie buddy I think that he does fantastic work!!!:smile::smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took it to the range today to function check it. Still no sights, but it worked well for the 12 test rounds.

I then dropped the pistol off with the range's gunsmith to have it blasted so that I can apply the finish this weekend.
 

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What kind of finish are you going to use? Mirando
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
What kind of finish are you going to use? Mirando
Right now I'm thinking of Parkerizing it and then baking on Norells Moly Kote. The Norrels has a good rep for wearing well, and the Parkerizing supposedly helps it bond to the metal even better.

I was interested in CeraKote, but I've heard it is a bit more difficult to apply, since it is a two part mixture. I was going to see how your's turned out, if you put it on your latest project. :wink:
 

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Yes, I will post about it after complete. I is going to be almost two weeks before I get it back from the polisher. Please let me know how yours turns out, thanks Mirando
 

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Very nice, De-horn the edges some if you are using a spray on type coating. It will hold up on the edges better and longer. And yes.... Share some pictures with us when you get her done. We would love to see the final product!!
Great Job!!:smile::smile::smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Parkerizing coat is now applied. It at least buys me some corrosion resistance and time to get my spray on finish set-up.

I am kicking myself now that I did not just get a cheap sandblaster myself.
I paid the gunsmith to do the blasting for me. He hit the frame rails and there is now detectable movement in the slide to frame fit that did not exist before. It is very minimal and may have no real impact, but the perfect fit was what I was paying for when I decided on a Fusion to start this project.:frown:

My Parkerizing job was not stellar either. I think I missed a couple of spots with the degreaser, and it didn't come of in the hot water bath either. So there are some light spots in the phosphate coat. The paint will cover it up, and I have learned my lesson, that if you think it is good and degreased, degrease it again.

I won't post pics 'cause I'm embarrased to have done such an amature job on the finish. :nuts:

I will post pics when she is painted.
 

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Don't feel bad, Park is tougher to get the process down than many. Especially trying to do it without a full blown set-up.
Thanks again for the posts.
:smile::smile::smile:
 

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It would still be nice to see the pictures just for the educational value. Nothing to be ashamed about as you took the time and effort to make your own 1911. You should be proud. I am proud of you as I also made my own and know the ups and downs that go with it, Mirando
 

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Cool I cant wait, Mirando
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here she is. Battery died on the camera, so I only got a few pics that are kind of blurry.





The Norrells was pretty easy to apply, and seems fairly forgiving. Now I can hardly wait to see how she shoots with sights.
 

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An OUTSTANDING job. Can you tell me a little about this finish as I really like it. I should be CeraKoting mine sometime next week, thanks Mirando
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The Norrells is pretty easy to use, as it comes pre-mixed so there is no diluting to do. Just shake it real well before loading the airbrush and shake while you apply. (29 dollar Badger airbrush from Michaels craft store).

I degreased using hot soapy water, as the manufacturers instructions recommended.
I baked the parts in the oven to make sure they were thoroughly dried, and there was no remaining oil leeching out of cracks or crevices.

Pre-heating the parts, (They recommend 100 degrees, I used a hair dryer until they felt like a fever or slightly warmer.), makes it go on dry and flat. No runs this way, and the parts are dry enough to allow light handling without marring the finish.

Hang the parts in the pre heated oven (300 degrees for one hour.) Let the parts cool, and reassemble. Use your favorite lube.

I did all of the small parts first to ensure I had a good grasp on using the airbrush, an dto see how much paint was consumed in the process. I did two coats on the small parts, and reloaded the little jar tha tthe airbush came with before painting the slide, and reloaded again for the frame. this was to ensure that I didn't run out of paint, and that color and consistency were the same on the major parts.

I aslo made sure to shake the 8oz bottle well everytime I reloaded the airbrush reservoir.
 

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Where do you buy this finish? Thanks Mirando
 
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