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I have tried my share of lubricants, most have already been covered and do a fine job. One that I didn't see mentioned is ballistol muti-purpose. I have been using it recently with good results. It truly is multi- purpose, and safe to use on things such as wood and leather.
 

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Old Sheepdog
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Old Sheepdog
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1,235 Posts
I have tried my share of lubricants, most have already been covered and do a fine job. One that I didn't see mentioned is ballistol muti-purpose. I have been using it recently with good results. It truly is multi- purpose, and safe to use on things such as wood and leather.
Yup, I've had Ballistol on my shelf for years.....used to be called "trigger job in a can".
 

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I keep track of round count by saving the receipts from the bullet manufacturer and my Springfield Loaded 1911 has gone through nearly 20,000 rounds loaded with lead bullets in the last year and a half with Spectra full sythetic 4 stoke single cylinder motorcycle oil. 15w-50. It leaves a slippery film that's impossible to wipe off and resists fouling even on the stainless steel. I just went through it and replaced the mainspring, sear spring, disconnector, recut the sear and trigger, replaced the firing pin block and the extractor. There was no wear on the barrel, bushing or slide rails we could determine. The link is fine too.
 

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I have used Break Free since the mid 60s. It was developed for the M-14 do to jams. It stood up to the harsh weather conditions of Nam with no problems, we called it "Snot" at the time. I used the M-14 & twin 50s with no problems. Guess I'm just old and when a lube works as good as Break Free I do not like to change. If anyone has something better, please let me know and I will look into it.
Thanks, Gene
 

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Old Sheepdog
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I have used Break Free since the mid 60s. It was developed for the M-14 do to jams. It stood up to the harsh weather conditions of Nam with no problems, we called it "Snot" at the time. I used the M-14 & twin 50s with no problems. Guess I'm just old and when a lube works as good as Break Free I do not like to change. If anyone has something better, please let me know and I will look into it.
Thanks, Gene
Welcome to the forum. Tracy
 

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I make my own.

4 oz pure liquid lanolin
16 oz 91% alcohol

Make sure the alcohol evaporates before you size the cases.

I just made 20 oz. of really good case lube that i can spray on cases using a sprayer I picked up for $1.00 at Dollar Tree. This is going to lube an awful lot of brass!
 

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I use a luberplate grease that I bought from Texas Refinery Corp about 30 years ago. never seen anything else like it. its lite and heat rezistant and dont take much on the slide rails to do the job
 

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:thinking: I agree with Thisisit. Good old 3-in-1 or I also use Break-free. We used it exclusively on our range and its great stuff.
 

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New lube to consider

For the last few months i've been using Rand CLP.I use it in a Sig 1911 T45 TME as well as a Sig P226 in .22,9mm,and .40 S&W(conversion kits). This stuff is terrific and the more you use it the better it works.Cleanup is also much quicker and the stuff stays where you put it.Give it a try and see what you think.It doesn't take much and the weapons stay "wet" after hundreds of rounds.
 

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I am just curious as to everyones preference in gun lubes. I really don`t shoot very much compared to a lot of folks, but I like and use FP-10. It seems to do a great job as far as I`m concerned. I`ve read on other forums quite a wide range of products and opinions concerning their use and effectiveness.
I have used Hoppe's for years. However, the owner's manual that came with my new DW Specialist recommended FP-10 or Militec-1 for slide lube (and recommended against Hoppe's and CLP). I had a return to battery issue when I first fired the weapon that I think was a result of slide lube (used Hoppe's). Still going through break-in, but now using FP-10, and haven't had an issue since.
 

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I grew up shooting competitive skeet in Southern California. Used Hoppes to clean, and STOS (Slicker Than Owl Sh*t) for lube.
Joined the Army in 1985 and was a die-hard Break Free nut until I retired.
Worked in Kuwait as a Combat Trainer for three years after retiring and noticed that the Marine FASTCENT unit's Frog Lubed weapons ran like scalded cats in dust and sandstorms, whereas the Army's Break-Free'd weapons failed repeatedly.
When my contract ended and I got home, I switched to Frog Lube on all of my guns and haven't looked back.

When I was going through Front Sight's Instructor Development Course this past summer, two of the days got extremely dusty and sandy. Almost all of the Break-Free'd guns encountered some environmental stoppages, but my Frog Lubed FNS-9 purred like a kitten.
Cleanup is a snap, even on the hard-to-clean M4 parts.

I know there's some griping about FL in cold weather conditions, specifically on another forum, one guy poured some on a plate and put it into the freezer. A few hours later he had a congealed puddle of FL. Not very scientific, and if you use FL, you're not supposed to put puddles of FL on anyway.
A couple of my buddies still on active duty in Korea, have used it through South Korean winters on their M4's, M249's, M240's, and M2's without any problems.
 

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Old Sheepdog
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I have used Hoppe's for years. However, the owner's manual that came with my new DW Specialist recommended FP-10 or Militec-1 for slide lube (and recommended against Hoppe's and CLP). I had a return to battery issue when I first fired the weapon that I think was a result of slide lube (used Hoppe's). Still going through break-in, but now using FP-10, and haven't had an issue since.




Welcome to the forum. Tracy
 
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