I've had one for about four years now.
I've carried it for half that time or more, have used it in three classes that I can think of, and consider it my "regular carry" 1911.
I like it a lot, but would be careful before buying another because of a couple of "Kimber things" that concern me.
First is the extermal extractor, but I understand they are going back to the original design, internal extractor so it's probably a non-issue. Mine has the external extractor and has been fine, but I've seen and heard of trouble with others that I'd try not to get another Kimber with external extractor.
Second is the firing pin safety. I guess problems with that are less common, but I had trouble with mine, so don't care for them.
All the components have to be timed and toleranced correctly, or it will not release the firing pin block when it should. I checked a few guns a couple of years ago, and their release points varied a lot. They varied from releasing the f.p. block as soon as the grip safety cleared the trigger to travel rearward to needing the grip safety fully compressed until it stopped hard against the frame.
I'd prefer it to release when the grip safety clears the trigger, since I see little reason for it to be engaged past that point. Every bit later just increases the chances of the gun failing to fire sometime because the grip safety wasn't squeezed far enough...even though it would allow the trigger to be pulled.
The first time I shot mine, I had no trouble. What a nice gun.
The second time, I had a few failures to fire. All rounds fired on the second try. The difference between the first and second time shooting it was in HOW I was shooting. That the first time I was testing various ammo and shooting for groups by taking a deliberate hold, carefully aligning the sights, and generally taking my time. The second time. I was practicing like I usually do- drawing from the holster, shooting while moving etc. After some looking, I found my gun needed the grip safety squeezed all the way in...absolutely positively all the way in, until it stopped hard against the frame. That's OK on a range gun where I can always take an ideal grip, but I got mine for carry and I may not always be able to get an ideal grip.
I got it fixed, but I'd rather I didn't have to.
I would buy another Kimber with the firing in safety, but not without checking it first by giving it the pencil test (UNLOADED gun- muzzle up, drop pencil down barrel, cock, dry fire. By doing this a few times and varying how far the grip safety is squeezed, you can figure out where it releases the firing pin. If it releases by the time the trigger can move, or close, I'd take it. But if it needs to be squeezed much past that point, or all the way like mine started out, I'll pass).
Don't think I'm anti-Kimber. I love mine now that it works. You just need to look at a thing or two. It's the same with many other makers.
Other than that-
Mine works great, and shoots VERY well. The trigger is great. The edges of the gun are left just right- smooth enough to get through a class without sore hands, but it still has lines left. It operates very smooth, and the barrel fit is very well done. It still "rings" when the slide is closed.
The TLE is basically a Custom with checkering and night sights, which are nice things if you like them. The checkering is pretty decent- it isn't as nice as my gee-whiz custom 1911 (I wouldn't expect it to be), but it's better than the checkering a local guy did on one of mine.
The only thngs I've changed is to install wood grips instead of the rubber, and to get rid of some now-common 1911 "upgrades" that I despise (replaced the full length guide rod with a standard rod and plug, replaced the holey trigger with a solid one, and replaced the plastic mainspring housing with steel).
Barry your problem is solved. Buy a Kimber Warrior is is a series 70 model which kills the firing pin safety. the checking is good and it has a steel mainsprings hsg.. I would say you may want to just changed the grips.