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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DW 10mm CBOB Detail strip and lube

Hi folks, I decided to try my hand at detail stripping and cleaning my CBOB. Take down was much easier than I thought. Now that everything is clean and ready to go back together I have a question. What and how much should I lube the frame internals. I read somewhere that you should not lube the trigger bow and channel(collects dirt), correct? How about the sear and extractor? Or should everything get a light coat of FP-10 or Breakfree CLP? Thanks in advance.

I was amazed at how clean the internals where after 1500 rounds. I clean the slide parts after every range session so I am not surprised they are always clean.

Snag
 

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Detail stripping is easy and just plain fun. I like to do mine more often than is needed, it is really not needed that often.

You will probably get lots of answers to lubing but it also depends on the lube. I do like to lube the trigger channel and bow, I use weaponshield that is put out by the same guy that created fp-10 so you might try it when you are due for more.

191's like plenty of lube, so in my opinion it's hard to use too much good lube. Of course that includes wiping off excess, but they are not one of the models like glock you can pretty much shoot dry.
 

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I need a vacation
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I get a cloth with FP10 and wipe all the small parts with it. Leaves a good glossy film on everything.

I heard that you should bend your elbows when you shoot a 1911 so the oil has somewhere to drip from. :biglaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys, I am ready to re-assemble.
 

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1911auto Supporters
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I don't know the right way or wrong way, but i always give the internals a drop (either FP-10 or Breakfree) and wipe off with a towel before reassemble.
That includes the trigger bow.

I'm liking FP-10 better. if for no other reason than the smell.
Breakfree STINKS.
But i have a pint of the stuff, so I'll use it....

I use Shooter's Choice grease on the frame/slide rails and barrel lugs





..L.T.A.
 

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I use CLP for everything except the frame rails. I put a VERY light coat of plain old tube grease on the frame rails.

Going on 12,000 rounds and my Stinger rails still look new...and thats stainless.

The only wrong answer is "no lube"...anything slick and not so thick as to cause slow slide action will work.
 

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I like Slide glide a lot on the rails, it's like they are on ball bearings with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I started using slide glide this last summer. Unbelievable stuff. I'm sold on it.
 

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I think slide glide and weaponshield is an unbeatable duo. Weaponsield even smells good, very light "cinnamony" odor.
 

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All Moving parts really should be lubed first off, and High friction areas even more so. I use Mil-Com grease and TW-25 but on the hot spot swear by Slide Glide, since I live in AZ. I use the heavy one and always put it on my rails at the least.
 

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I've gone to Militec and Wilson grease. If my trigger pull is a little gritty I still have some McCormick Trigger Slick, which will smooth out the roughness and lighten the trigger pull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
FYI, a small tub of slide glide goes along way.
 

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Yep, seems to last forever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I got my CBOB apart with no problems, cleaned her up, lubed up the internals with FP-10, rails with slide glide and put her back together. Works like a dream. As this was my first time detail stripping I struggled a bit with the sear and disconneter on reassembly, but finally got it right. The EB memory groove grip safety didn't just drop in, after the mainspring housing was pinned as my Utube instructions pictured. I had to drop the housing a small bit to let the tab on the bottom of the safety fit in. After that is was clear sailing. Thanks for all your posts.
 

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Right, you don't pin the msh till the grip safety is in.
 
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