[Mirando Ketner]

I am going to coat my new Fusion slide on my build and cant decide between these two finishes. I will be using one of them I think and was just wondering if any of you have any experience with either one? Or if you could recommend any other good finish that would be cool too, Thanks MK

 

[Hylander]

I looking for some info on these as well, I have a Star Model B that needs a new finish

 

[Lazyeyedpsycho]

Haven't used either of these but I recently redid both my A/O 1911 and Combat Commander with some stuff called Duracoat.

I had it done by a gunsmith because he offered me a good deal when I talked to hi about bead blasting them but as I understand it can be easily done at home.

Here are a couple of pics:

Hope this helps,
Harold

 

[Reconvic]

First let me ask what type of finish you want a gloss or matte?
BTW Lazy why put a Comp on a .45 unless you are using all +P loads to work a comp it has to travel fast and .45 are big fat and slow bullets unless you are using Blk Talons, or Ranger T?

 

[El Pistolero]

Cerakote is a tougher finish than gunkote. Gunkote is pretty good when applied over parkerizing but still not as tough as cerakote. I've thought about doing my oacp at home in gunkote over park but I have not decided to.

This guy here will do a complete hangun in gunkote over park cheap, 135.00 including internals, and is good.

http://www.shootiniron.com/

 

[Reconvic]

Ro-Bar is the way to go!

 

[El Pistolero]

I'd take melonite over ro-bar but he asked about those two.

 

[Lazyeyedpsycho]

First let me ask what type of finish you want a gloss or matte?
BTW Lazy why put a Comp on a .45 unless you are using all +P loads to work a comp it has to travel fast and .45 are big fat and slow bullets unless you are using Blk Talons, or Ranger T?

Long Story short...I just got a really good deal on the barrel and it happened to have a comp on it.

At the time I was shooting IPSC and I was in the process of building an "Open Class" gun. The comp surely didn't hurt, so I went with it. It actually did help a little... It allowed me to get my loads comfortable above the "floor" for IPSC "Major Power" when coupled with a little bit heavier recoil spring. Instead of having to hover around 825 FPS with a 200gr LSWC and fretting over the chrono stage, I could load them up to 900+ FPS and be comfortable. With the comp and spring combination was was running, It was still a very soft shooting gun with very little muzzle flip. Also, I was pretty much guaranteed to knock over pepper poppers that might be set a little heavy....(I never hit low or anything like that...:biggrin::biglaugh::shades.

Now it's become my secondary carry/HD gun, so-to-speak. The comp was a 3-port unit. I shortened it to the configuration you see here. I liked the barrel so much, and the way the gun runs with it, that I couldn't see going back to a barrel/bushing configuration. Especially considering that Troy did some accuracy/reliability work when he fitted the barrel and the gun is Stone depndable. It will feed VW mini-busses if I can figure out a way to get 'em in the magazine. And it is far more accurate than I am....:notworthy:

I also went back to all "factory weight" springs and got the trigger back up to a nice crisp 6.5 lbs or so, in a nod towards the safey aspect of things.

Bye the way...using 230gr Hydra-shocks for defensive purposes right now and they are a little hot...

VR,
Harold

 

[Reconvic]

Lazy that what I was wondering since a comp really don't work well on .45's because of the speed they travel at. Now if you are using S/D ammo that does explain why you left it on there. I shoot IPSC also but shoot it with Lazercast SWC.200grains. It doesn't make major but I shoot in limited class. Thks for the insight.

 

[Lazyeyedpsycho]

Lazy that what I was wondering since a comp really don't work well on .45's because of the speed they travel at. Now if you are using S/D ammo that does explain why you left it on there. I shoot IPSC also but shoot it with Lazercast SWC.200grains. It doesn't make major but I shoot in limited class. Thks for the insight.

Actually I'm considering going ahead and Bobbing the comp completely off. The way it's made it's very do-able. It would leave about 1/4" plate on the front end of the barrel...I think it would look kinda trick and I don't think it would adversly affect the shootability much.

In fact, what little it might lose in recoil reduction would probably be a trade off for losing that big bright flash I'm sure to see if I have to use it in the dark....

Just not sure about the look...(Opinions more than welcome) It's allready kinda a "Franken1911" anyway.

Worse comes to worse, I just go back to a conventional barrel/bushing. It's not like they are prohibitively expensive. In fact I've still got the original around here someplace...

VR,
Harold

 

[Reconvic]

If you do you might as well make a 11 degree crown at the end of the barrel it not only protects the barrel, but looks sweet too. Lazy I work on 1911's all the time I have so many extra parts my wife thinks I am a branch of Brownells lol.
PS I have cut down Ruger barrels with no ill effects at all.
S/F Vic

 

[Lazyeyedpsycho]

If you do you might as well make a 11 degree crown at the end of the barrel it not only protects the barrel, but looks sweet too. Lazy I work on 1911's all the time I have so many extra parts my wife thinks I am a branch of Brownells lol.
PS I have cut down Ruger barrels with no ill effects at all.
S/F Vic

I was thinking of something along those lines. In this case I wouldn't even be cutting the barrel...just right in front of it. It would actually leave about 1/4" of the comp material. Strength wise I don't see an issue. Accuracy and functionality wise, same thing. It's realy just cosmetics.

That's the deal. When you start one of these things it can go a bunch of different directions. But I guess you know that.

It's probably a good thing that I'm somewhat limited by funds and have to think about it...or all my guns would be in pieces.

thanks for the imput...nice to have ideas from someone who shares a passion for these guns....Nowday everybody wants a piece of tupperware...:biglaugh:

VR,
Harold

 

[N.D.]

I'd take melonite over ro-bar but he asked about those two.

Pistolero,
Do you know if there is any finnish tougher than Melonite to put on your firearm,?
or is melonite as tough as it gets?

 

[El Pistolero]

Hard chrome is the toughest. There is a black chrome also but its hot as hard as hard chrome.

 

[blowndeadline]

I use Cerakote, it's much more durable than Duracoat. Just my preference! You can achieve gloss, satin and matte finishes with cerakote. It's how you mix it!
My WG P226 I did in Cerakote: