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1911auto Supporters
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Discussion Starter #1
Got home this afternoon and saw a package from Brownells on the deck.
Inside were my goodies to proceed with the bob-job

I got right to it.

Drilling the hole exactly right, even with the jig weren't no picnic given the tools I had to work with.
I'll spare youiz the gory details, but the sum-bee is 30 thousandths out of round.
The other side hole is perfect.
Thank gawd the grips will cover the MSH pin and hole

MSH pined, it's now time to start choping.
Diamond coated cutting wheel on my Dremel, magnifying light over my work, and i got down to business



With the magnifiying light and a steady hand, it was pretty easy.
Now she's ready for some love with the file




My t-Rusty file stroked the profile into place, then follow-up with some 220 grit paper and she's not looking too bad to me




A little more finish work, then I started monkeying around with some old grips to get some ideas for the "real" ones I'll put on.
(I haven't decided what kind yet)









I'm not all tickled with a bit of the old MSH pin holes showing from the bottom, but i don't see there's a thing i can do about that.
Guess it's just the nature of the beast on some guns.
(they mentioned in the instructions that it's a possibilty)
Oh well, can live with with it.

I'll also have to find grips that don't have the stock pin relief cut in them to avoid the scallop I can't sand out without messing up the profile.



all in all though, I'm pretty happy with what I've accomplished so far.

With the exception of getting the first pin hole jacked up, it was a fairly painless and smooth project


..L.T.A.
 

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Looks Fairly Good.. Your Brave Man i would like to try one but well not sure if i will .. I would like to have my Les Baer bobtailed
 

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Looking good Cap!!!:smile::smile:
 

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Old Sheepdog
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Cap - I've got to hand it to ya - you got some guts!

Well done..
 

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1911auto Supporters
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Discussion Starter #5
thanks guys

it ain't bravery or guts though

it's "too dumb to know any better"
along with a "I can do anything" foolishness that's always plagued me all my life
(It's got me in trouble more than a few times too :rofl:)

I would of never considered anything like this on a large dollar gun.

I bought this Rock to play with and "go to school" on.


...L.T.A.
 

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Looking good cap, my sig has part of the pin holes showing right now but when I get one of the already done bobtails I have coming to compare it to I think I will probably take it down further. Mine is rounded a little where most bobtails is more flat. The housing is also very thin at the bottom. I think it's just nature to be a little cautious when filing it down.
 

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Here is a pic of mine right now:



Here is a razorback by Dave Severns of 1911forum. It's kind of hard to tell but the msh at the bottom is almost shaving sharp. OK, an exageration but it's like the colt I did. VERY thin on the sides as you have to get it that way to get rid of the pin holes.



http://forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=1337520&postcount=6

In other words, you can get rid of them you just have to go down more.:)

I need to get mine that way as a local guy will bead blast my frame for 10.00.

Also, when drilling the hole make sure you measure real well and start with the smallest bit you have first. That has worked really well for me and aslong as you get the first small bit in there the jig keeps the rest from getting larger than the jig, I have never had a problem and I jsut use a cordless drill and hack saw to cut the frame.

Not trying to be critical, just offering up some things.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Jerry

i didn't/don't take it as critical.

I did start with a smaller bit.
(not small enough though)
AND..I didn't figure out how to straighten the missed center line til AFTER I cobbed it up a bit:nonono:

If I would grabbed the Dremel needle diamond hone right away after the first drill, the hole would of only been out of round by a couple/few thousandths, rather than the 30 thou it ended up being

live and learn
the HARD way.....:biggrin:


..L.T.A.
 

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So what are you going to do about the hole now? or Will it Work Ok ?
 

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Cap remember, the first one is the learning experience and I think you are doing real well.

I always start with the smallest bit I have, then work my way up. I can see the one side and it looks fine so it must be just the one side? The msh keeps the pin locked in so if that's the case there should not be a problem and just use grips that cover the hole.

Worst case scenario, since it's a blued gun, I would fill the hole with jb weld and when it hardned I would put the msh in, start with the full size bit on the good side and using the msh as a guide drill through. That's only if it's bad enough. I know of someone that used jb weld to fill in a bad checkering job and it worked pretty doggone well. Of course andy jb weld is visible and it cannot be blued, it must be done with duracoat, gunkote, etc.




Thanks Jerry

i didn't/don't take it as critical.

I did start with a smaller bit.
(not small enough though)
AND..I didn't figure out how to straighten the missed center line til AFTER I cobbed it up a bit:nonono:

If I would grabbed the Dremel needle diamond hone right away after the first drill, the hole would of only been out of round by a couple/few thousandths, rather than the 30 thou it ended up being

live and learn
the HARD way.....:biggrin:


..L.T.A.
 

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Here is the sig. I don't have a macro lens so this is just a crop and pretty crappy, but you should be able to see how thin the msh is. The pin holes are gone, just need do a little bit more and get it bead blasted.

[/IMG]
 

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1911auto Supporters
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Discussion Starter #12
nice Jerry

and thanks for the tips

Bud, i "think", since the MSH is held firm by the grove channal, and i have one hole perfect tight, I don't know that it will make all that much difference.

will it???

hmmmmm

I'm heading out to Home Depot to pick up some materials.
I may as well pick up some JB, fill and re-drill.

It will be a cinch to get it straight now by drilling thru the other side w/jig in place


..L.T.A.
 

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Cap, I doubt you will have any problems with it at all if the one side is tight and since it is held in place by the msh. I would not worry about it in that case and just try to get grips that cover it. The JB weld suggestion is just for extreme cases. I HAVE used it in other instances, like patching a hole in a harley gas tank, and the frame could not even rub a scratch in it.
 

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Try it and see what happens cap if it give ya problems then Jb it up
 

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1911auto Supporters
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Discussion Starter #15
welp, I filed out the rest of of the old MSH holes.
i feel better now.
Also put the final mirror polish to her to match the controls
(I like the "bling")

Then i figured I better put it all back together and make sure all fuctioned.
(just a fit and dry fire safety check)

all was good. YES!!!

I went a head and JB'd the hole just for good measure.
it's curing now.

I was about to JB mud the "lint trap" under the rear of the sight, but then it dawned on me (thank gawd) I haven't fired to check for pont of aim yet!!!

It's a little chilly here for any "take my time" rest shooting out back.
So I figure in the next week or two, I'll make it to the indoor range with nylon drift pins and hammer in hand for any adjustments needed.

no real hurry, cause right now I'm trying to save some "sneak" money for grips, monogram bushing and maybe...just maybe, a new grip safety and jig to cut the frame tangs right.
(for a better fit than I can achieve with the Wilson drop in I installed)


..L.T.A.
 
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